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The tree comes in one of three different forms: bare-rooted
(deciduous plants only), balled and bur-lapped (B&B),
container-grown, or containerized. Plant bare-rooted trees in
the late autumn, winter, or early spring when they are
dormant. However, container plants or balled- and bur-lapped
plants may be planted any time, only not when the ground is
frozen, or in very hot weather.
If possible, plant the tree as soon as it arrives at home;
otherwise it may dry out and be harmed. If the plant cannot
be planted immediately, place it in a shady or sheltered spot.
Cover the roots of bare-rooted plants with moist soil, sand, or
peat moss. Keep the soil of balled- and bur-lapped or
container plants moist until ready for planting.
Planting:
Since wet soils can reduce plant growth and survival, one
should plant in well-drained soil. To plant the tree, dig a hole
at least three to five times as wide as the diameter of the
plant’s root-spread or root-ball. Do not dig too deep; once
the plant is placed in the hole, the top of the roots or root-ball
should be level or slightly above level with the surface of the
ground. Remove all tags, wires, or ropes from the stems or
trunk. These can strangle and kill the plant as it grows.
For container-growth plants, ease the pot off without
disturbing the root-ball and save it for recycling. Cut any
circling roots, and then place the root-ball in the hole. For
balled- and bur-lapped trees, place the plant in the hole
before removing the burlap covering. Then, to ensure root
growth and access to nutrients and water, pull the burlap
down off the root-bal and leave it in the bottom of the hole.
Do not attempt to pull the burlap from under the plant – this
could damage the root-ball. If a balled- and bur-lapped
root-ball is enclosed in a wire basket, and there is no other
covering, the basket can be left in place. Cut the wires off
below the soil surface so that they do not interfere with raking
or cultivation.
Before planting bare-rooted trees, remove damaged or
diseased roots with a clean pair of sharp pruning shears.
Untangle and spread the roots into a natural position. Then
place the plant in the hole. Do not prune branches from a
bare-rooted tree, as this may reduce the growth of new roots.
When replacing the soil in the hole, do not add organic
matter. Instead, if the original soil or backfill contains too
much rock or construction debris, replace it with local topsoil.
When the hole is about three-fourths refilled, straighten and level the tree, tamp the soil down carefully, and water heavily.
Then, fill the hole with backfill to its original level. Use excess
soil to build a ring 6 to 10 cm from the outside edge of the hole.
Water heavily again to fill air pockets in the soil.
Watering:
Watering during dry periods of the first growing season is
crucial, especially with container-grown plants. Container and
balled- and bur-lapped tree roots dry out faster than the soil
around them, so it is particularly important to monitor their soil
moisture. In the nursery, the roots of container and balled- and
bur-lapped trees become concentrated in a small root-ball
which is watered daily. After planting, the roots of these trees
will eventually spread into surrounding soil. However, until then,
the trees continue to draw water mostly from their root ball.
Consequently, if the soil near the trunk is dry, the trees need
water.
Irrigate the trees heavily once a week during periods, use a
garden hose to slowly soak the soil. Always check the soil
moisture before watering to avoid over-watering as this can kill
the plant.
Mulching:
Place mulch (pine needles, straw, bark-chips, or slightly decomposed
and shredded leaves) 2 or 3 cm deep around the plant.
Mulch will prevent water loss and keep lawn mowers and string
trimmers from getting too close to the plant.
Spacing:
Anticipate the mature size of trees. For instance, never plant a
tree where its height will interfere with future power lines. Avoid
placing trees too close to buildings, driveways, and sidewalks,
otherwise the roots of the fully grown plants may damage these
structures, and the limbs and foliage may block windows and
doors or interfere with foot traffic.
Fertilizing:
Applying the correct fertilizer when planting helps ensure
healthy trees. Incorporate a slow-release fertilizer, preferably
composed of 25 to 50 percent water-insoluble nitrogen (WIN),
into the soil backfill at planting time. If the plant’s growth is slow
or the leaves appear paler than normal, have the soil tested.
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